the vintage showroom

Gieves Royal Navy collection

2010-03-09T21:22:00.004Z

....beautiful early 20th century Royal Navy collection by Gieves we picked up recently. I am partially blaming my current sea obsession on the Great Mr Cabourn. Regardless, when we saw this at auction we just had to bid big!

1960's Trial Racer's Belstaff jacket

2010-03-01T12:54:00.005Z

.....so I should be shooting all the amazing pieces we have just shipped back, but I do not know where to start, so back to that soon. In the mean time this is the piece that I have given my heart to this week, a 1960's Belstaff Trialmaster, came from the Trials racer that bought it back in '66. The patina is amazing! Check out the contrast in color from around the zip, this would have been bright red when he first rocked it, 40 years on it is a beautiful, almost black with red undertones. Enjoy....

so where do you find all these things?

2010-02-15T16:16:00.006Z

....so allways a delay in updates, but this time with good reason. I have only just got the feeling back in my fingers from the last North American buying trip. For those that don't know what -20 feels like its cold, very cold.

So 8 days on the road we shipped our biggest vintage haul to date, the end of our trip saw us some three hours north of Toronto with nothing but a case of Molson Stock, (how cool is the label!) in a old hearse with no heating. The lengths we go to for you folks! Hard to get inspired for Spring/Summer when you can't feel your feet, but we found some crazy crazy vintage so check out 14 Earlham Street from next week to see what we are saying!

....and this was the one we had to leave behind, maybe next time Rogerio!

2010-01-13T09:49:00.003Z

Workabilly unfamiliar vintage leather boots. Based on a pair of Vintage Canadian work boots I have worn to death with the idea of a Rock'a'Billy shape. The work boot is the result of our first joint project with our friends at Garbstore.

Hand cut luxury leather, made in Portugal, high density soft rubber sole, leather lined with full tongue to toe canvas lining. Super lightweight boot.

Available in Black or Tobacco Tan

In Store Now!

Available from the Vintage Showroom's Covent Garden store at

14 Earlham Street, Seven Dials, Covent Garden, London

Or Garbstore at 188 Kensington Park Road, Portobello, London

2010-01-08T18:13:00.004Z

So Happy 2010, mine was not quite as glamorous as this, but one of my presents was a celebration of 250 years of Sotherby's, from which this beautiful picture is lifted.

At an electrifying 1969 Parke-Bernet auction saw Richard Burton's agent repeatedly bid for this stunning 69.42 carat diamond ring (worn suspended from a separate necklace), Cartier won with a winning bid of $1,050,000. Burton later managed to acquire it from Cartier amid unprecedented publicity, ever since the diamond has been known as the Taylor-Burton Diamond.

Could it look any more stunning than in this shot, enjoy....

Ursula Suit

2009-12-30T18:20:00.012Z

.....my other present (though to be fair I bought it for myself), was this little number above. It took the whole of 2009, and a little of 2008 to find, (and once we had) a lot of energy and loot to prise it from the collectors hands who owned it. We finally managed, and many thanks to him for parting with it, it has gone to a good home no doubt, strictly a rental piece this is one we are keeping!

So it was with pleasure and immense satisfaction, that we finally landed this amazing example of an Ursula Suit dated 1945, jacket and trousers.

I became hooked on the story of the Ursula jacket last year. An American designer that we work with from time to time, asked me to try and source one. It was a piece that I was unfamiliar with at the time, but one that has now started to become something of a Holy Grail in vintage terms. Sometimes I think I am in this business as much for the thrill of the hunt, as for the love of the things we find. Having had a bit of a wax cotton fetish for a while, through a love of old Barbour and Belstaff jackets, I was straight away intrigued by what is undoubtedly the Daddy of all wax motorcycle jackets.

Much has been written about this obscure 1940's Royal Navy submarine suit, as with anything, some good, some bad and some rubbish. This is what I discovered in a year of research, by no means definitive, but closer than anything I have read.

For those that do not know the legend, we have the gentleman below to be grateful for the Ursula suits creation, though undoubtedly this was amongst many more important achievements!

This piece is about a jacket and what it represents to me and why I think it is cool, rather than a military history, if its facts and figures you want I suggest that you return to the History Channel.

"the only consolation was the comfort that a Barbour (Ursula) suit gave when those seas were coming solid over the bridge rail. Those poor bastards in destroyers still had pusser’s oilskins, seaboots and a towel round the neck, which did nothing to keep the seas out"

Gus Britton WWII submariner and Naval historian

The Ursula suit is a waterproof protective waxed cotton garment designed and manufactured specifically for use by bridge and deck personnel on Royal Navy submarines during the Second World War. Post war the remaining suits, as with alot of military surplus, ended up in the hands of bikers, a fitting end when you consider the suits creation.

The Ursula suit owes its origins to the one-piece waxed cotton motorcycle over suit manufactured by Barbour in the late 1930's. The garment was manufactured from tan-coloured waxed cotton, the velvet-lined collar with buckled throat strap, zip fly front, and two plain patch chest pockets. The one-piece motorcycle over-suit appears in the Barbour catalogues of the mid-1930's, and would seem to have been discontinued by the early 1950's.

Shown below is an early pattern Barbour racing suit from our collection, unusual in that it has no pockets.

Captain George Phillips took command of the submarine HMS Ursula in 1937. Submariners wore general Royal Navy issue clothing, and he felt dissatisfied with the existing protective clothing. Through observing one of his crew wearing a one piece Barbour suit, he privately approached Barbour and commissioned a modification of a one-piece suit into a new two-piece design of jacket and separate trousers.

This prototype featured two chest and two pleated skirt pockets, and was produced at Captain Phillips' own expense for the crew of his own submarine, HMS Ursula. Captain Phillips is indeed wearing the jacket of his design in the photograph above dated 1939. Produced specifically for the crew of this one submarine, it is likely that less than twenty suits were manufactured. (Something I am still researching to try and find out the exact number and cost). There is one known remaining example of this early variation, which is retained, as it should be, in the Barbour Archive, South Shields. This example has no military marking or pattern reference and is lined with brown/tan cotton. The picture below is the only version of one that I have been able to come up with, other than the one of Captain Phillips. Taken some 10 years later at the 1950 ISDT trials.

Following the success of this prototype series of suits, a revised Ursula was produced, the chest two pockets were removed, and the civilian tartan lining replaced with a heavy dark-blue cotton. Two manufacturers, to my knowledge, were commissioned to produce these, construction, detailing, materials and hardware identical throughout. Barbour and Sons of Southshields and Lawrence Nedas & Co of Kent.

Picture above showing the lookout left of camera in his Royal Navy issue Ursula Suit.

Later picked up by bikers as the perfect trials competition wear. I have a few pictures like the one below, it would appear that quite often the hood has been removed, but an Ursula no doubt.

I think that this is such a cool story, and I hope that I have conveyed some of what I love about it. For me the time line is of great importance. I confirmed with Barbour what my understanding of the production dates were, and this was the conclusion.

The Barbour racing suit was referenced and improvised on to come up with a new two-piece wax cotton suit in 1939 as a prototype specifically for HMS Ursula. At this time there were no two-piece motorcycle suits, contrary to opinion out there. The International was still some 10 years away, had it been in circulation this would have surely been sufficient. This Ursula suit was then commissioned in 1941/42 for all Royal Navy Submarines and seems to have only been produced for a few years.

The Ursula was the forerunner of all the wax motorcycle jackets that came after. As the Barbour one-piece suit inspired the Ursula, so the Ursula inspired the creation of the Barbour International which was the first of the British wax motorcycle jackets, which as a piece still stands up some fifty plus years later. As iconic today as ever and looking particularly cool on USA team rider 278 in the 1964 ISDT.

the vintage showroom

2009-11-26T12:08:00.005Z

.....some pictures of our studio

Based in West London, the showroom is an appointment only studio housing our vintage clothing and accessories collection. Located at 20 Buspace Studios, Conlan Street, London, W10 5AP, for further info or to make an appointment contact info@thevintageshowroom.com

You can also view our collection at our 14 Earlham Street store in Covent Garden located at

14 Earlham Street, Seven Dials, London, W2CH 9LN tel:02078363964

NYC's finest

2009-11-25T20:01:00.005Z

.....so with my body clock taking a hammering, I was on the street early morning in New York this Sunday past. Met some very cool characters, and turned up some real cool finds. Intended as more of a research trip, but I could not resist an early morning tour of the NY flea markets, thought I would share some of the treasures that I turned up in Hells Kitchen and Brooklyn.

The next lot will be kicking off our jewellery collection at 14 Earlham Street from next week, strictly one off pieces from reclaimed metal works, so don't hold back!

above 1930's-1950's New York dog tags

above 1940's US Army railroad switch keys soon to be on reclaimed brass neck chains

above WWII USA made military whistles

above left to right, USN laundry pins, 2 1950's native American imagery watch fobs, US Navy sweetheart pin, 1930's NYC cop whistle

above left to right from the top, 1940's US Navy ring silver, 1940's Military whistle, railroad workers badge, 1940's NYC Longshoreman's ID badge, Construction workers badge 1950's, railroad workers badge, 1930's/40's Naval base ID badge

for prices and further information contact info@thevintageshowroom.com

The next was the killer find for me. A NYC policeman's file from 1930's to 1950's. Forming a complete record of his career including mug shots, newspaper cut outs of cases he solved, bad guys he caught, fingerprints the lot. More from this when I have had more time to go through it all!

tweele

2009-11-18T22:07:00.005Z

...an interesting find this week at an antique fair on our travels. Very much a one of a kind, 1950's sample Blazer. used by a travelling outfitters. Presumable to demonstrate to the customer the quality and range of their available fabrics. Excellent quality with hand stitched lining and some 12 samples of cloth on show. Looks like it was worn as well which I love, imagining the salesman wearing this as he went on his appointments. Just a very cool old piece to my mind! Available from our showroom, price on request.

info@thevintageshowroom.com

Fresh of the boat...Submariner Jumper

2009-11-16T21:43:00.005Z

We are a vintage clothing company, and no doubt vintage-heads, we love the integrity and honesty found in old things, the beauty in the quality of how things were, the skills of the artisan making something with pride that stood the test of time. That for me is the litmus test, a piece that 10, 20, 50 years later still looks cool and is still doing its job.

So when a good friend came to us with an idea for a new line in Submariners jumpers we weren't convinced, until we had a closer look!

Made in England with all due love, respect and attention to detail, I will let him explain himself but these are proper!

“The Submariner Sweater was War Office issue to the Royal Navy in both World Wars. In the 1950s motorcyclists adopted them to wear under a Barbour or Belstaff jacket to keep out the cold. They used be available from army surplus stores until about 10 years ago until original supplies “dried up”. I had many enquiries from devotees who wanted one of these classic sweaters, so decided to get them remade in the same heavy-gauge knit as the original, but improving the fit slightly as the WW2 issue was very long in the body. These hard-wearing sweaters are manufactured by a family firm in Nottinghamshire, England, using pure new wool and will last for many years.”

Neil Starr

North Sea Clothing.

We are rocking ours under old waxs all winter long

Commander Phillips style!

Available now in British made pure wool in cream or navy from,

14 Earlham Street, Seven Dials, Covent Garden

WC2H 9LN, 0207 8363964

info@thevintageshowroom.com

The Vintage Showroom A/W

2009-08-28T20:26:00.003+01:00

....some pics of the showroom from this week. We have been buying like crazy all year and boxing up most of the goodies, so nice to finally see everything out. It has been a busy week blitzing the studio, turning it around for Autumn/Winter.

We have put together an amazing collection of outerwear. From WWII aviators jackets to beautiful antique horsehide bike leathers, a heavy weight collection of Military jackets and coats, and an unrivalled collection of knitwear! Add to this a sharp collection of mid-20th century suits and a pile of vintage Harris tweeds, and I think we are just about ready!

viewing by appointment contact dmg@thevintageshowroom.com

14 Earlham Street

2009-08-24T22:04:00.005+01:00

...so busy days, getting the shop looking ship shape, and now we are good to go!

Any problems talk to the Skipper above!

and for all those that still dont know

14 Earlham Street

Seven Dials

Covent Garden

London

WC2H 9LN

about the only interesting place to buy men's vintage in London!

there we said it!

Two Blonds

2009-08-24T21:31:00.003+01:00

...been away for a while so thought I would bring you back in slow.

Above from Vogue September edition, a great picture of a 1940's Swiss Alpine parka we lent for the shoot, available from 14 Earlham Street email info@thevintageshowroom.com for details.

and the latter needs no introduction, from an old LIFE magazine edition I recently picked up a nice pile of, more to follow!

Brigitte Bardot at her best, enjoy.

hidden treasure

2009-05-28T20:45:00.009+01:00

I am a sucker for old luggage, and have always loved these old Navy flyer's bags. This was one I picked up recently in a military fair in Europe. A nice piece, not a greatest deal but I was happy with the price, and I had bought a heap of other cool pieces from the guy. By chance I ran into the dealers son a week later at another fair who asked if I liked the silk keepsake inside the bag? I hadn't even noticed. Amongst the screwed up newspaper and old carrier bags was this killer silk USN "mother" keepsake. Got to love the artwork....

I should know by now to check through the shit I buy every time. Over the years I have found in pockets live ammunition, old weed, contraceptives 30 odd years past there best, and a fold of $20 bills, but this is the coolest thing I've got that I didn't buy!

fresh and new

2009-05-26T15:17:00.005+01:00

....slowly cracking open the new stock from the last North American road trip, and we got some beauties! Three we like, 1940's B15-A Army Air Forces, 1940's US Navy coveralls, 1950's US Air force L2B.

things we found and love cont.

2009-05-26T14:02:00.005+01:00

1930's/40's Lee coverall, beautiful wash to denim, House label tag to neck, long L Lee buttons, watch pocket. A real peachy feel to the denim that you only get from old Lee and Wrangler. I love this jacket, nice grainy denim showing years of wear, identical period block repairs to both shoulders, even the cropped arms have grown on me.

Short sleeved denim work jackets, its the future!

all about the kids

2009-05-26T12:51:00.010+01:00

We will soon be moving our kids collection over to 14 Earlham Street ready for the launch on 01st July 09. A crazy collection of vintage denim from the 40's and 50's, amazing deadstock t shirts from the 50's & 60's, war time Fair Isle hand knits and some beautiful old tour jackets. We have been saving these up for years! You just can't find them like this anymore!

For people looking for something a little bit different to the high street offerings....

things we found and love

2009-05-26T12:18:00.006+01:00

Amazing US Army denim pullover in Mint condition! This was the 1920's/1930's pattern before they dropped the pullover style in favour of shirt/jacket, and before the denim coveralls became more common. These in turn replaced in 1940 by the OD HB twill. Distinctive chest pockets and US Army buttons to chest and cuffs. I have been hunting one of these for so long! Happy days people! and no need to email on prices for this one, I'm rocking it right now and all summer long! We have other US military denim in stock, feel free to email for images, prices etc.

14 earlham street

2009-05-08T19:55:00.007+01:00

Its official our 1st stand alone store will be opening soon at

14 Earlham Street, Seven Dials, Covent Garden.

RIP F.W. Collins & Sons.

We weren't the ones to kill it off! 174 years as an ironmongers, and we hope to preserve some of the legacy and a touch of the cool. More pictures to come as the paint dries. Trading now but will be officially opening July 1st 2009 watch this space. We will be moving a large chunk of our collection over to here for general public perusal and enjoyment.

14 Earlham Street

things will change

Jackson Pollock's

2009-05-08T19:38:00.007+01:00

Now I know that a great deal of Jackson Pollock's is spoken on these blog things on a regular basis, but is this not the coolest of floors you have ever seen? Taken without doubt in one of the coolest apartments I have ever seen, and who knows maybe one day he will let me shoot the rest of it, many thanks MR O.

Yep back from another smash and grab on North American soils. We have some heavy vintage and will be showing it off here very soon. But while the good people in customs go through my paperwork you will have to settle for the carry-on until the spoils arrive!

"our friends" in New York

2009-04-07T17:50:00.019+01:00

Always a tease I know! But here are some of my favourites from a vintage wax jacket collection we recently put together for a customer. They will soon be winging their way over the Ocean to "our friends" in New York. It would seem that the love affair we all have with these old wax Barbour and Belstaff jackets just will not die! (on either side of the Atlantic). Email for details of what we have in stock.
From top to bottom. Early 1950's belted Barbour walking jacket, no crown label, amazing patina. No crown refers to Barbour as a company before they received their 1st of 3 Royal appointments. Exceedingly hard to find 1950's Belstaff with chequer flag label. This was Belstaff's first wax cotton moto jacket. 1960's Belstaff trialmaster with Sammy Miller label. Beautifully aged 1950's no crown Barbour.

have fun in Manhattan....
http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/

the problem with modern day packaging

2009-04-04T22:38:00.002+01:00

Although much of the packaging from today's grocery shopping will still be around in 50+ years, it will not be through choice, and it is not going to look as cool as this....
http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/

1940's flyers' jackets

2009-04-04T21:50:00.010+01:00

I know, a sunny day in London and I am dreaming about my winter wardrobe already. Its just that sourcing cool spring/summer vintage is no way as much fun as digging up killer outerwear treasures for those cold winter months. So, much as I enjoyed that cold beer in the sun at Portobello today, I was thinking about sharing part of our ever growing antique flying jacket collection. Three of my favourites....

Jacket above is an early pattern US Army Airforce A2 by Spiewak & sons North Bergen, NJ. Original zip is an early example of a spring back pull manufactured by Crown. Jacket is beautifully aged with an amazing look to the leather....

Not sure about the origin of this one, I bought it with a collection of English WWII flying jackets from a collector who wasn't sure either. Unknown flying jacket, with amazing patina, interesting hand repairs and paneling, zip has been changed at some time and I will get around to putting something more fitting on this amazing piece. Probably too far gone to wear this one, but a beautiful jacket for display or design inspiration....

My personal favourite, type D1 US Army Airforce shearling. This gets my vote as it sums up the US military's "only the best will do" attitude when it came to uniform and field gear in WWII. These beautifully crafted shearlings were for the ground crew rather than the pilots. I love it that the mechanics were rocking these! I guess that is why they come up so rarely, they just would have got trashed by the day to day wear and tear from the men working in them. Amazing example with alot of life left in it....
http://www.thevintageshowroom.com/

vintage denim

2009-03-25T21:14:00.008Z

The last North American road trip left us in indigo heaven! So it was nice to hear we got a mention on WGSN as one of the places to go for vintage denim in London. We always thought we had the goodies but its cool to hear it from someone else. We have a killer collection and letting it go is the hard part! Needs must though and we are dealers not hoarders so we will be posting pics of some of our favourites for sale next week....
http://www.thevintageshowroom.com

14 Earlham Street

2009-03-25T16:15:00.004Z

very much a work in progress, but something to look forward to I think! Our new adventure 14 Earlham Street, will be our first stand alone store opening later this year, more to come on this one.....
http://www.thevintageshowroom.com