TAILORED WOMENSWEAR

You wouldn’t be blamed for thinking that tailored jackets didn’t often appear in women’s fashion before the First World War, but accounts of women wearing tailored and more masculine pieces can be found as early as the 17th century. This began with riding habits that allowed women to ride horses more freely, made by tailors, not dressmakers.

Our brown and burgundy bodice jacket is a late Victorian or Edwardian example of a riding or walking jacket, likely paired with a skirt. It has a contrasting modesty panel that neatly fastens up under the lapel.

 

Dior’s ‘New Look’ in the 1940s was heavily influenced by the silhouette of 40+ years before, which translated into tailored single-breasted jackets with broad shoulders and nipped waistlines. This is the style that influenced our cream, scalloped edge ‘Lou Larry’ jacket and grey tab-detailed swing overcoat from the same era. The 1940s polka dot blouse and skirt are similarly tailored close to the body.

 

In the following years, we began to move away from corsetry and tightly cinched waists. The 1980s, however, had other ideas… This collarless, panelled jacket, with an almost raglan-style sleeve and contrasting corset waist, is certainly one of the more interesting tailored jackets from the archive, and much like the bodice from the century before, it too has a modesty panel.